Skip to content

The History of Sizing Charts

Back to All Posts

Ah, sizing charts—the unsung heroes of online shopping. These nifty tables promise to guide us to the perfect fit, sparing us from the dreaded too-tight tee or the "is-this-a-dress-or-a-shirt?" conundrum. From shoes to hats and everything in between, sizing charts are our trusty companions in the quest for well-fitted wardrobes. But have you ever paused to wonder, "Where did these things come from?" Buckle up, fashion aficionados, as we embark on a whimsical journey through the evolution of sizing charts. 

The History of Sizing Charts

Tailor-Made Threads: The Pre-Sizing Chart Era 

Once upon a time, before the age of mass production, clothing was a bespoke affair. Skilled artisans would meticulously measure, cut, and sew garments by hand, ensuring a perfect fit for each individual. This personalized approach was the norm until the Industrial Revolution waltzed in with its steam-powered looms and assembly lines. But with great production came great sizing dilemmas. 

Tailor Measuring Customer

Filling Out WAR-drobes 

Interestingly, it was the battlefield, not the runway, that spurred the need for standardized sizing. Wars like the Napoleonic, Crimean, and American Civil Wars required armies outfitted swiftly and efficiently, which led to the era of mass-produced military uniforms. However, early attempts at sizing were more guesswork than science, leading to ill-fitting attire. 

Assumptions to Averages 

Enter Adolphe Quételet, a Belgian mathematician with a penchant for statistics. In the 19th century, Quételet began applying astronomy’s tactic of calculating statistical averages to determine typical human measurements. His work laid the foundation for applying averages to clothing sizes. 

During the American Civil War, President Abraham Lincoln used Quételet's method of averages to gather valuable data for the war effort. The data collected influenced everything from ration distribution to weapon design and, of course, uniform sizing. The early sizing system included four categories: small, medium, large, and extra-large. However, these early sizing systems were predominantly based on chest measurements, with other measurements like waist, hips, and sleeve length assumed to be proportional or easily adjustable—not exactly a perfect fit. 

Adolphe Quetelet's Study of Averages

Women's Sizing Takes Shape 

While men’s sizing was getting its act together (sort of), women’s clothing remained in the custom-made realm. In 1881 Charles Hecklinger, an American tailor, introduced systematic methods for adapting women's clothing into block patterns. However, it wasn't until the 1920s that the trend began to shift towards mass production as manufacturing processes improved and the population increased.

Early dress pattern from the book Hecklinger’s Ladies’ Garments
Early dress pattern from the book Hecklinger’s Ladies’ Garments.

 

The need for standardized women's clothing sizes accelerated during World War II, as the U.S. government sought to provide uniforms for the female military workforce. The Women's Army Corps (WAC) conducted extensive surveys of over 15,000 women to establish a standardized sizing system based on bust, waist, and hip measurements. Though the study received criticism for its lack of diversity and inclusivity among the sampled population, the survey still forms the foundation for current sizing standards. 

Women’s Army Corps (WAC) Uniforms
The Women’s Army Corps helped set sizing standards for a wide array of clothing styles from 1942-1978.

 

Progress on Precision 

As the 20th century progressed, the push for more accurate sizing gained momentum. The National Bureau of Standards (now known as the National Institute of Standards and Technology) stepped in to create comprehensive sizing standards. By incorporating multiple measurements beyond just the chest or bust, these standards aimed to improve fit and reduce the frustration of ill-fitting garments. 

The Ever-Evolving Quest for the Perfect Fit 

Finding the perfect fitSizing charts have come a long way from their humble beginnings. They've been shaped by war, science, and the wild tides of fashion. While they may not be accurate for all body types, they certainly simplify our shopping experiences using a data-driven approach. So, the next time you're deciphering a sizing chart, tip your hat to the centuries of trial, error, and ingenuity that have gone into that grid of numbers and letters. Happy shopping!